I Live for Couture Week—Here's How I'm Re-Creating the Best Looks

3 months ago

A fairy godmother is not required.

Let's be honest for a moment... fashion can feel "frivolous" at times. Even more so within the context of contemporary couture, which can sometimes feel ostentatious compared to our approachable capsule wardrobe. Because much of the basis of modern couture is inaccessible to most consumers, and there's so much happening in the world that it's only natural for most to question, "Is haute couture really that serious?" I'd never surmise that it would have the weight that so many other topics do in the world, but I'd also never discount its influence. Like it or not, couture has often acted as a reflection of current times—it can tell us what's happening in the stars and the stock exchange. Long before something blows up on TikTok, you better believe its origins can be traced back to couture fashion week. The essence of what's fashionable (with a capital "F") always comes back to haute couture because it's about the craft of making clothing. It's not about hyperconsumption; it's about the art. That feels particularly topical as more conversations in the cultural canon center on the idea of adopting the "quiet luxury" ethos—a.k.a. the shift from keeping up with trends to investing in timeless items. Couture offers people a permission slip to escape from the never-ending trend cycle; it's a way to fall in love with well-made clothing again. At best, couture can make us see the world in a new light or, at the very least, change our wardrobes. But if you're still not convinced about how couture can apply to your relationship with your own closet, you'll want to keep reading. After hours of image research, I've narrowed down the six best spring/summer 2024 couture collections based on how they made haute couture feel relatable to our everyday lives. Plus, I've identified three looks from each show that are easy to recreate with shopping recommendations. Prepare to become a cultural fien for haute couture. 

When it comes to crafting otherworldly creations, none do so like Schiaparelli. Since its inception in 1927 by Elsa Schiaparelli, the atelier has pushed the boundaries of how we see the universe, one surrealist piece at a time. That legacy has lived on through Daniel Roseberry, as the creative director often pays homage to the house's rich history—the recent haute couture being no exception to this trend. The brand's show notes noted that Schiaparelli was "famously preoccupied with astrology"; that obsession was imbued throughout the spring/summer 2024 collection. Roseberry nodded to the astrological shift into the age of Aquarius—i.e., astrologers define the era as a period of innovative technological advancements and social revolutions—by mixing "old world" elements with "new world" shapes. For example, there were obvious nods to technological elements through a bodycon dress encrusted in "pre-2007 technological artifacts" or the life-sized baby robot styled with a tank top and low-slung cargo pants. But then there are more abstract references to Roseberry's home state of Texas, embodied through cowboy boots, layered buckles, and denim. The pairing of the seemingly "opposite" aesthetics accurately reflects the dichotomy of living in the modern world. It can be hard to see the wires that connect the past to the future, much less to see how haute couture and ready-to-wear exist on the same planets—yet Roseberry managed to do just that. It will arguably be one of the most defining haute couture collections of our time. 

Style notes: Although it's unlikely that you'll be able to get your hands on Schiaparelli's life-like robot baby, the look above is easy to recreate in your everyday life.  What you'll need: Oversized earrings + tank top + cargo pants + cowboy boots

Shopping for anatomical-shaped jewelry is a must for recreating the Schiaparelli aesthetic. 

A great tank top is luxurious, ok! 

Style notes: In addition to pieces encrusted with antiquated technology, Roseberry nodded to the "new age" through contemporary silhouettes—e.g., the satin suit above with dramatic tailoring.  What you'll need: Satin blazer + button-down + tie + trousers 

Sublime. 

Satin pants from any brand can make you feel like you belong on a haute couture runway. 

Style notes: The key to recreating this collection in your everyday life is styling your staples with Western-inspired accessories.  What you'll need: Button-down shirt + western-inspired belt + trousers + western ankle boots

Quiet luxury, embodied. 

Giddy up! 

Although the notion of couture is supposed to exist outside the realm of everyday clothing, the truth is that it doesn't. Couture reflects the space around us; it might not be what we wear daily, but it can connect us profoundly. Of course, not every Maison can connect those dots for us, but not every brand has the same influence as Alaïa. Founded by Azzedine Alaïa in 1964, the Parisian atelier has a long history of using high-end craftsmanship to highlight the female form in an approachable way. That's no more apparent than with the brand's recent summer-fall 2024 couture show. Created by current creative director Pieter Mulier, it was, in their own words, "based on the curve, on the circle, the curves of women, and circles of friends, of chosen family, an idea essential to the essence of Alaïa." The idea of bringing curves to life through couture is embodied through various silhouttes throughout the collection—e.g., jeans came in a dramatic barrel cut to create a rounded shape. Similarly, multiple looks within the collection featured a unique technique in which single strands of merino wool yarn were draped to create circular-shaped skirts and dresses that moved as models walked. Even outside the realm of clothing silhouttes, we saw the concept brought full circle through accessories—reference the oversized bangles, pumps with arced heels, and handbags with sharp curves. The collection proved that haute couture and ready-to-wear relationship isn't linear; it's a curve. All of it is connected; you just have to have a master like Mulier to show you the way.

Style notes: Since the full circle skirts were the focal point of much of the collection, recreating the look requires keeping your styling minimal—i.e., wear a neutral turtleneck and pumps to keep attention on the skirt and jewelry.  What you'll need: Beige turtleneck + full skirt + oversized bangles + pointed pumps

You better believe this bodysuit will be your go-to stape for years to come. 

We're living for the return of large bangles. 

Style notes: The easiest way to pay homage to Alaïa's couture collection is by wearing a pair of barrel-leg jeans with a turtleneck.  What you'll need: White turtleneck sweater + barrel leg jeans + oversized bangles + ankle boots

Another great foundational basic! 

The more demure barrel-leg silhouette on these jeans makes them easier to wear day-in-and-out. 

Style notes: Mulier's mission with the collection was to pay homage to the curves in life, so when re-creating the look, you'll want to opt for draped items that highlight your own curves and accessories that have a dramatic bend to them.  What you'll need: Draped sweater + poncho + layered bangles + asymmetrical skirt + ankle strap pumps

Capes are making a comeback, mark our words. 

Is it just us, or does the curve of this heel make you want to cry because it's that good? 

In recent years, there have been many conversations surrounding the future of high fashion. In an age where pragmatism is prioritized over idealism, being in the business of haute couture doesn't always translate. But one atelier has managed to nail the "dialogue between poetry and reality": Fendi. One could argue that since its inception in 1925, the Italian house has made the case for couture's place in contemporary life, but the brand's spring/summer 2024 couture show feels particularly reflective of that aim. As the creative director, Kim Jones, detailed in the show's notes, "In the collection, there is humanism at the heart of this future; there's the body, the silhouette within the silhouette, the person, and the handwork of the couture. The collection is about structure and decoration, where the two become indivisible. I wanted an idea of precision and emotion at once." The aim to blur the lines between couture and prêt-à-porter was achieved through how the skills of artisans were used in conversation with classic silhouttes. For instance, the sharply tailored separates that have proliferated ready-to-wear collections over the last few seasons were elevated through the usage of exotic textiles and embroidery techniques. Similarly, the staple rib-knit dress was given a stylish upgrade through a knotting technique that creates a swaddle around the shoulders and bustier. Then, there were the accessories, which took some of the more approachable Fendi items, including its popular baguette and eyewear, and gave them bespoke upgrades. The result was a collection that managed to thread the needle between the two worlds—harmonizing the past and the future in one Fendi collection. 

Style notes: The key to making Fendi's couture collection feel much closer to home lies in adopting accessories that pay homage to the show. A pair of rimless sunglasses styled with a tailored leather coat and pumps should do the trick.  What you'll need: Rimless sunglasses + leather coat + handbag + fringe pumps

Ok, so these glasses aren't covered in white diamonds like the shades in the couture collection, but they're still just as cool! 

You can also nod to the futurism of the Fendi collection by opting for patent leather coats. 

Style notes: When drawing inspiration from Fendi's couture collection into your daily life, it's imperative to pay attention to the details. Don't just wear a white sweater dress; choose one made from luxurious materials.  What you'll need: Layered ear cuffs + white sweater dress + handbag

Getting your hands on a baguette is half the battle in recreating this look. 

It's made from cashmere, so you'll feel like you're a model on the couture runway too. 

Style notes: Tailored separates are pivotal to making those more traditional couture items approachable, which can be applied to your wardrobe. The metallic accessories or sequin skirt in the back of your closet can feel brand-new by styling it with a tailored blazer.  What you'll need: Brown blazer + sequin skirt + embellished bag + silver pointed pumps.

Chocolate brown blazers always look chic, even if they're not haute coutrue. 

Futurist vibes on deck. 

Style notes: You can't make an homage to Chanel couture without a classic tweed piece! No matter if you opt for a dress or blazer, it will ensure you capture the essence of this brand.  What you'll need: Tweed blazer dress + tights + ankle-strap sandals

Tweed is a quientessential part of the Chanel aesthetic. 

You'll own these for years to come. 

Style notes: In order to make those more "ballet-inspired" pieces work for everyday life, take pointers from the Chanel look above by pairing tulle, tights, and bows with a tailored blazer.  What you'll need: Hair bow + black blazer + tulle skirt + white tights + ankle-strap sandals

So posh!

It's the contrasting satin collar that sold me. 

Style notes: Whoever said couture couldn't dance the fine line between being functional and embodying high-fashion never saw the Chanel runway look above.  What you'll need: Hair bow + black mini dress + white tights + ankle-strap sandals + shoulder bag

Consider this your sign it's time to invest in a Chanel bag. 

White tights were basically in every one of the Chanel couture looks, making it a non-negotiable purchase for recreating the collection. 

Couture has always been in a constant state of evolution. In many ways, how we collectively define "couture" has always reflected the micro and macro relationships humanity has with its clothing. Long before the Industrial Revolution, one could argue that all clothing could have been considered "couture" because there were no systemized clothing production methods. Of course, the quality of clothing has always been a visual indicator of social class. But on the whole, it was only after the democratization of fashion through industrialization that couture came into its distinct category, separate from ready-to-wear. One could argue that the French fashion house Dior helped shape that distinction. Throughout its almost eighty-year tenure, the atelier has not only championed craftsmanship but also challenged our perspective of clothing—including in the more recent spring/summer 2024 couture collection. As explained in the brand's notes, the show was called 'Big Aura' because of how the creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri sees the evolution of couture. She explained, "Haute couture is a perpetually fertile ground for contemplation where the reproduction of the original is never the same. Each piece is bound to be adapted to the body of the wearer and carries its own specific aura." We might live in the age of mass-produced fashion, but Grazia Chiuri reminds us that clothing should evolve with us. Something that was displayed throughout the show as various archival looks (e.g., blazers with nipped-in waists and capes made from moiré) were revised throughout the collection to make them feel contemporary. The result was a collection that imbued the idea that couture serves as a "collective memory".  

Style notes: You can't pay homage to the long history of Dior couture without wearing at least one hourglass-shaped blazer—the silhouette is synonymous with the house's legacy.  What you'll need: Hair bow + tailored blazer + pencil skirt + platform mules 

Dior's hair accessories are the perfect way to inject a dose of haute couture in your daily life. 

The nipped-waist on this blazer? Art. 

Style notes: Using texture was  how Grazia Chiuri brought archival silhouettes to life, so be sure to play with incorporating various textiles into your look.  What you'll need: Cape + waistcoat + trousers + layered rings + round-toe heels 

Capes have never been more chic. 

The right pair of trousers will convince you of the art of tailoring. 

Style notes: If we didn't make it clear, let us reiteration: this collection was all about letting each piece's innate uniqueness shine. Therefore, when you're recreating this look, pay attention to the details, that's where you'll find the 'aura' of each piece.  What you'll need: Tailored blazer + pencil skirt + layered rings + platform mules + Dior bag

Although not present on the couture runway, Dior's saddle bag remains ever-relevant. 

NGL, I think about this skirt once a day. 

If we're being honest, no other brand has pushed the boundaries of how we view haute couture and how it influences the culture better than Jean Paul Gaultier. The eponymous label was founded by the French designer in 1982, quickly making waking waves in the fashion world for its unconventional gender-fluid designs that challenged everything from "traditional" ideas surrounding beauty to what textiles can be considered "high-end"—he was one of the first designers to use denim in couture. His work was spotted in music videos and movies, cementing couture into the cultural canon in an unparalleled way. But the influence does not stop there. When Gaultier decided to retire in 2020, rather than shuttering the house, he decided to create collaboration collections with various designers each season. With every collaboration, we've been able to see designers not only reimagine the rich archives of the house but remind us that couture, like any art form, is meant to provoke and inspire. Simone Rocha managed to do both with her guest spring/summer 2024 couture collection. Nodding to quintessential sultrier elements of the couture house, Rocha gave them a softer take. For example, Jean Paul Gaultier's iconic cross-laced corsetry came in the form of a satin pink dress. Similarly, the cone-shaped bustier that's synonymous with the brand's overall sensual aesthetic was affixed to a black dress with a nipped-in waist and ballgown-shaped skirt to create an almost subversive take on hyper-feminity. Through the collaboration, Rocha was able to bring a new perspective to the couture house in a way that captivated the internet. It's served as a reminder that couture doesn't have to be "out of reach"; it can be a part of the conversation with the right creative vision behind it. 

Style notes: We see the "sultry" satin bra that's synonymous with Jean Paul Gaultier, given a contemporary feel through the addition of embellishments by Simone Rocha.  What you'll need: Bra top + pencil skirt + leather gloves + satin mules 

Yes, you can still shop some of Jean Paul Gaultier's more iconic items. 

You can style this in so many different ways. 

Style notes: There's no better way to pay homage to both fashion houses' signature aesthetics than by wearing a pink corset dress.  What you'll need: Oversized earrings + corset dress + platform heels 

Investing in a pair of Simone Rocha earrings is the perfect way to recreate this runway collection. 

Note the floral-shaped bustier on this dress. 

Style notes: You might not be able to wear a full couture look, but you can feel like you are by wearing a tailored blazer with a full skirt and clear mules.  . What you'll need: Bejewelled makeup + blazer + full skirt + PVC mules

A waistline that gives meaning to the term "snatched". 

You may not have a haute-couture fairy god mother on speed dial, but you can have your own pair of glass slippers.